Japan 2017 - Sushi Dai

There are good things, there are great things, and then there are things that belong to a class of their own.

Food is no exception. There's just food that transcends the medium from nourishment to that of an art. Hong Kong showed it with Kau Kee's curry beef brisket noodles and Yat Lok's roast goose.

We've been looking forward to similar experiences since.

Tsukiji's Sushi Dai has been a must-visit on our mental list for a very long time. Chalk it up to documentaries like Jiro Dreams of Sushi (which we can probably never justify spending a good chunk of one's monthly salary on).

Anyway, we arrived in Osaka the night before, and took the shinkansen to Tokyo to meet our friends. They were flat out from travelling, but my girlfriend and I decided that we would power through the heavy rain and stick to the plan by heading for Tsukiji Market at three in the morning for sushi.

Was it worth the (three-hour) wait in the cold? Maybe. I can't really tell in hindsight. It is, however, the best sushi I've ever had by light-years.

I guess there's a lot of weird expectations our generation has about Japan. We grew up absorbing its cultural exports, and in a strange way we've probably subconsciously romanticized the idea that it's our foster country of sorts. Sushi, I suppose, was thus a fitting proper start to a nine-day adventure - and we knew we had to have it from the source.

Chutoro (Fatty Tuna)

Tai (Sea Bream)

Hotate (Scallop)

Akami (Lean Tuna)

Maki

Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper)

Taichiuo (Cutlass  Fish)

Ikura (Salmon Roe)

Sanma (Saury)

Bonus Piece: Chutoro (again), because this costs a lot in Manila.

Sushi Dai
Address: 5 Chome-2-1 Tsukiji, 中央区 Tokyo 104-0045, Japan
Damage: Omakase Menu | JPY 4,000 (PHP 2,0000 | USD 39 | AUD 51)

Notes
Eat with your hands. Do as the locals do. The chef is a friendly fellow and, to our surprise, it seems that he has met his fair share of Filipinos as well.

Queue up early. If we had to do it again, we'd probably be there by 2:30am. Tsukiji is an interesting place. Bring snacks, if you need that energy boost.

Sushi Daiwa, which is literally next door, is run by the same family. Their queue is much shorter, but I'd still recommend getting there early.

Japan 2017 - Gaiden: Nijō Castle

Nijō Castle.

Osaka Castle is one of those mandatory stops in the famed city. It's pretty, heck, gorgrous even, at least from the outside - a quality one will see a lot of in Japan. I was just a tad bit disappointed to find out that it's been turned into a modern museum after its most recent reconstruction.

It's worth a stop, surely, if just for the history lessons - but there's a missing bit of authenticity for those who really want to see how the castles of old Japan once looked like. Maybe I've set my expectations from what media about Japan we outsiders consume, so there's that.

The silver lining was the gashapon machines in the castle gift shop, which spat out historical samurai miniatures - perfect for use in tabletop games for that exotic touch. Sadly, I didn't have a lot of hundred-yen coins with me, so  I wasn't able to get as much as I wanted.

Truly, if there ever was a hack to the gambling aspect of the human soul, Japan has found it in the form of gashapon. I had a feeling that these particular gashapons were exclusive to castles, and a bit of Googling confirmed my suspicions.

Based on the information available, there was only one place that was even remotely close to us - Nijō Castle in Kyoto.

Castle Gardens.

We had a packed itinerary, and I was really happy that we managed to sneak an unplanned visit during our day in Kyoto. Fushimi Inari-taisha sort of kicked my ass earlier, which made this side trip a bit sweeter.

Nijō Castle proved that sometimes things just click without rhyme or reason - it was much better than we expected, and despite everything I'd go so far as to say it's much better than Osaka Castle.

We were left in awe as we walked the same halls as the samurai of old. There was an atmosphere of serenity as everyone walked through the ancient corridors, admiring the remnants of an ancient society. There's something to be said about a culture being able to command respect even from foreigners, and Japan is one of the better examples of this.

Gardens, said to have been supervised by the Emperor himself, surrounded the castle while ancient stone walls stood guard against the myriad threats during the Sengoku period. Inside, recreations of gold leaf panels and hand-painted murals adorned the rooms.

It's an incredible feeling to see context being added to the names of historical figures from a time long gone - especially if one's only exposure to them are from hyperstylized retellings from countless shows and video games.

Overall, Nijō Castle was one of the highlights of the Osaka leg of our trip.

Personally, I guess this proves that good things can sometimes happen when we go out of our way in pursuit of our silly whims. Whether it's an infinite monkeys with infinite typewriters kind of thing, however, is anyone's guess.

Sengoku Loot.

And yeah - I burned a good bit of change on those damn samurai gashapons.

It was worth it.

Conquering Masungi

The Web.  © Almary de Ocampo

For all its fragile beauty, there are very few things that would make one feel insignificant as the majesty of nature. This was my main takeaway from a weekend trip with friends to the Masungi Georeserve, a conservation area hidden away in the rainforests of Rizal.

Torn from beneath the sea by volcanic activity about sixty million years ago, Masungi Georeserve features limestone features jutting out the forest throughout its vast territory, most of which are reachable within four hours' worth of trekking (and picture-taking, for those so inclined).

Limestone Formations. © Almary de Ocampo

The trek began at a base site, which was essentially a garden which had a few covered areas for briefings and debriefings. We were introduced by the park staff to the ranger who was assigned to guide us through the rainforest and we were reminded of a few rules for the trip.

Masungi was a dying landscape as recently as 1999 and was restored with a great deal of effort over a decade by some very passionate individuals. The reserve opened to the public late last year in an effort to raise consciousness for its continued preservation (despite some significant struggles that threatened its existence only a few months ago), thus most likely ensuring its place amongst the better nature retreats easily accessible from Manila.

Scarier than you think. © Almary de Ocampo

A lot of the views are spectacular and (literally) breathtaking, such as the famous sapot (spider web) and the duyan (hammock), where everyone is suspended several hundred feet in mid-air over rocks or the forest canopy overlooking the park.

Duyan. © Almary de Ocampo

Masungi is laid out like a Dark Souls level - most of the landmarks visible in the distance were reachable on foot, and it was really cool to make mental notes (of personal achievement) as we reached each feature we saw just hours prior.

Nanay, one of the two major 'peaks' (along with Tatay). © Almary de Ocampo

It was a relatively easy trek, as the trails have been clearly marked (although there was a good amount of 'alternate' routes that the rangers warn newcomers about) and a path was painstakingly laid out through the rainforest for both trekkers and folks who just wished to retreat into nature.

While not as physically demanding as the 'easy' peaks like Pico de Loro, Masungi requires a decent level of fitness during the trek. In addition to the rainforest trail, we had to climb up (and down) several rope cargo nets as well as walk (and crawl) through caves - of which some of the crevices were rather small - to move forward.

Yungib ni Ruben. © Almary de Ocampo

The park was a combination of both natural wonders and human engineering. A lot of the artificial landmarks were built by hand over a long period of time, such as the duyan (which took three people ninety days to build) and what I could only describe as a 'rest station that was held up by a hanging bridge over the forest'. It's a testament to the engineers' and rangers' passion to help to raise public awareness for the reserve.

No, seriously. © Almary de Ocampo

I've been to several treks and one of the biggest things I've noticed was that there was not a single piece of litter throughout the trail - something that I was consciously trying to find. The park rangers were adamant that we should leave the place just as it was when we arrived, and the fact that they didn't sell any souvenirs reinforced the idea that they were doing what they did for a singular cause and they were not running the park for profit.

Masungi Georeserve's primary goal was to raise awareness for natural conservation and sustainable eco-tourism, and I believe that they were spot on in providing people with an opportunity to commune with the natural world. It was a gentle reminder that we humans are all but fleeting travelers through this life, and the world will continue to exist long after we move on.

Lame. © Almary de Ocampo

The Fine Print
They charge PhP 1,400 for a minimum group of seven, with a group of fifteen as the largest batch they'll take. Book in advance through their website, as it could take weeks (or even months) for a slot to open up. The cost includes the services of the park ranges (who'll also serve as the guide), as well as a liter of water and a sandwich (and some refreshments) at the end of the trek.

Safety gear will be provided along with a knapsack to carry things around. I'd recommend bringing only the essentials, but I think bringing extra water would be a good idea as the physical activity could lead to some mild dehydration despite the shade from the forest canopy.

I'm not sure if they'd provide ponchos in case it rains. It actually did pour down when we got there, but thankfully the weather cleared up before we were scheduled to start.

The trek isn't as hard as it seemed (despite the pictures) and overall, I'd say it was definitely well worth the price.

Traversing Kalinga, Cagayan and Apayao

The North.

It has always seemed like I get to explore more of the north with every visit, and this time was no different.

Instead of a bus ride, we were lucky enough to book a cheap flight to Tuguegarao. The weather was beautiful during the entire week of our stay - cold and gloomy yet there was enough sun to bathe everything in a soothing light not unlike those we often see in magazine articles or documentaries of the north.

Batil Patung.

Our first meal was a serving of the famous batil patung- a dry noodle dish with an absurd amount of different toppings. Generous portions of sausage, chicharon (pork rind), pork liver and (in my case) carabao (water buffalo) meat were placed upon a helping of noodles. The dish was self-seasoned with onions and black vinegar, and is then served with egg drop soup that one can slurp separately or pour over the entire dish.

Our visit was paticularly busy this time - we managed to get to the fringes of two other provinces this time (apart from Kalinga) along with its sister province of Apayao and the paths through Cagayan that connects them.

Magapit Bridge.

Buntun Bridge was one of the landmarks of the many trips we had through the region. Overlooking the Cagayan River, it's the second longest bridge in the Philippines and is surpassed only by San Juanico Bridge that connects the islands of Samar and Leyte down south.

Nondescript Rice Field.

Rice fields are not an unusual sight in the region, along with groves of many different fruit-bearing trees. In open fields like these, the chill from the cold air is greatly magnified - doubly so for me because I didn't think to bring anything longer than shorts.

Freshly Picked Wood Ear Mushrooms.

It's not uncommon for people to partially live off the land out here - something that isn't really apparent for anyone who grew up in the cities, where every single amenity has a price tag attached to it.

Things like fresh coconuts (which are extremely costly in Manila) and mushrooms (which left me utterly fascinated) seemed to grow just around the corner, ready to pick for anyone who happened to pass by.

The Castle.

The Ramparts.

A Distant View of Buntun Bridge.

Saint Philomene Church, Alcala.

We also passed by Alcala in Cagayan, where the Saint Philomene Church - with its ornate golden doors - are located. Alcala also happens to where Teaño Milk Candy originates - a delicacy that's seen practically everywhere around Region II.

The Alternate Route to Cagayan.

Thanks to its geography, the region is rife with winding mountainside roads and bridges that cross flowing rivers. A lot of the places we passed by were incredibly picturesque, owing to the relatively unexploited natural wealth of the land.

Bridge Over Cagayan River.

Park View.

Unfortunately, one of the places we tried to visit - Talama Viewdeck - was closed. We got a few shots of its exterior, which was covered in pine trees like some abandoned outskirt of Baguio (with much less people).

Pines at the Talama Viewdeck.

Old Pasunglao Bridge.

One of the things that this trip reminded me was how much of an imperial mentality the powers-that-be have for Manila. Still, the unpaved backroads and old infrastructure still have a charm that I've always seen from old, forgotten things.

Conifers at the Tabuk Capitol.

We also got to visit Calvary Hills in Iguig, Cagayan - a sprawling hillside adorned with life-sized statues depicting the Stations of the Cross overlooked by an old brick church.

Calvary Church.

I'll have a separate post about this place in a month or so (if I remember to do it). I've never imagined a place like this existing in the Philippines. It's a shame that this isn't something that has been featured in any public tourism campaign I've come across. Still, there's some reason to assume that the place is packed during Holy Week.

Calvary Hill Altar.

Shrine to Our Lady of Piat.

We also stopped by Our Lady of Piat - one of the most venerated Marian images in the country. The Lady carries half a millennium of history with it (and is credited with countless miracles across the centuries), and I can only feel awe mixed with reverence as we walked through the inner recesses of the shrine (which, strangely enough, held a vague scent of roses) along with other pilgrims.

Ringo (the tabby) and Snowball ( the black cat).

Ringo, the pictured cat, has a rather interesting story. He was a feisty stray we rescued over a year ago (and by stray I mean we had to fish him from under a water tank because he has been crying in the same spot for a few days). He mistrusted everyone and tended to be a bit nippy when he didn't get his way. It was a tough decision, but it was decided that he'd be better off in the province where the world was a less terrifying place (for a rescue animal).

A year later, he was the sweetest cat along with his 'mate', Snowball. I don't know if it's because he's aged a little and has thus mellowed out or if it's the weather that prompts them to seek the nearest heat source, but Ringo is a testament to the inevitability of change.

Overall, with the amazing food (because goat meat is my weakness) and beautiful weather, it was a week well spent.

To Cambodia and Back

Angkor Wat.

We've visited Cambodia a couple of months ago (hence this is a long overdue post). This is the second time I've been out of the country this year, and if there's anything that's been emphasized for me, it's that the world is a terrifyingly large place, and the disparity between its many peoples can only be apparent to someone who travels.

Causeway to Angkor Wat.

To say that Cambodia has a long way to go as a developing country is a gross understatement. Decades of conflict during the Cold War have set the country back by many years. Despite this, rapid modernization is undeniably present in the country - Western staples such as malls, convenience stores and hotels seem to be within arm's reach, at least from what we saw in Siem Reap (and I assume that the case would be the same for Phnom Penh).

Angkor Wat - Exterior Wall.

What Cambodia lacks in modern infrastructure, it more than makes up for with its tourism industry. The country has a surprisingly rich past dating back to over a millennium. Countless (and I mean countless) temples dot the landscape - architectural marvels that have stood the test of time and have survived wars, natural disasters and looting. The famous Angkor Wat is but one of Cambodia's more famous landmarks and is flocked by countless visitors daily.

Sanskrit.

From walls covered in long forgotten stories written in Sanskrit to entire carvings depicting the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata, there is an astounding amount of history preserved in the ancient stone. The modern Khmer people have deep respect for their history and culture, as evidenced by the level of preservation of their ancient artifacts.

Ramayana.

Sanskrit.

Recurring themes are visible throughout the different temples, as the ancient Khmer Empire has strong roots from the Indian subcontinent. Our guide mentioned that each temple was aligned to either Hinduism or Buddhism (and later temples to both).

The Lotus.

The Naga lines most temple causeways.

Reclining Buddha.

Buddha is given shade by the Naga.

The views are definitely breathtaking. Climbing atop the temples takes a bit of work, but seeing the magnificent views (that were once only reserved for the highest of royals and holy men) is a privilege for anyone living today.

Angkor Wat - Side Entrance.

Angkor Wat - Middle Wall.

Angkor Wat - Center Interior.

Angkor Wat - Overlook.

Angkor Wat - Stairway to Heaven.

Angkor Wat - Rear.

Of course, Angkor Wat isn't the only temple that Cambodia has to offer. Ta Prohm, made famous by the Tomb Raider film,was an eerie sight - ancient stone structures slowly being reclaimed by the forest, with the massive roots of the spung trees carving through the rock like it was clay.

The lingering effects of the past are seen on the way to the smaller temples. Millions of landmines have been deployed throughout the country over the years, and victims try to make a living by playing music or selling handcrafted souvenirs and fruits.

Ta Prohm - Entrance.

Ta Prohm - Entrance Close-up.

Ta Prohm - Ruined Wall.

Ta Prohm - Spung Tree Over Temple.

Ta Prohm - Spung Tree Growing Out of Rocks.

Even the paths towards the major landmarks were decorated with ancient pieces of architecture. Gates, signifying the territories encompassed by sacred grounds, stand tall above the thick foliage.

The Gate - See our van on the other side for size comparison.

The Gate - Elephants adorn the stone, which is an homage to Vishnu.

Elephant Training Grounds.

Temple Stones - Grounds staff pile them around while waiting for resources for their restoration efforts.

My personal favorite was Bayon. Massive stone heads depicting Buddha are found in its interior, most of which were carved and stacked like Lego bricks. Temples like these took generations to complete. Imagine spending one's lifetime dedicated to the completion of a singular goal - something that's unthinkable these days.

Bayon - Side.

Bayon - Exterior.

Bayon - Interior.

Bayon - Exterior Front.

Bayon - Exterior.

Needless to say, expect a lot of walking when visiting Cambodia. We had to trek to the top of a rather high hill to see the sunset on our first day (which was unfortunately crowded when we got there).

We also got to climb a mountain to visit one of the more sacred Hindu sites - a mountain spring that fed water to the entirety of Siem Reap in ancient times. The mountain is rife with symbolisms of the creation myth, particularly of the sivat linga - a representation of the union between man and woman.

The highest part of the mountain has the streams running through these carvings, as if the water itself is made fertile by their gods.

Sivat Linga.

Overall, I'd say Cambodia is worth the visit. The country is a massive change of pace from the insanity of the modern world, and revisiting a country's unspoiled past is one way to disconnect from the craziness.

The Fine Print
I'd recommend visiting as a group to allow expenses to be split. I think we spent a little less than PhP 25,000 per person for the entire four day trip, which included the air fare, tour guide, a rented van, the hotel stay and allowances for food, souvenirs, tips and miscellaneous stuff like massages, exotic food (like tarantulas and silkworms) and the infamous happy pizza.

I prefer their airport over NAIA, even though it's a lot smaller. NAIA is that bad.

Bring US dollars and (for the love of all that is holy) do not exchange them for Khmer riel at a forex counter unless you like carrying a bag full of paper money (or fancy yourself a millionaire for a short while). US dollars are generally accepted as the standard currency and the local currency is mostly used for spare change. Some establishments, especially souvenir shops, also accept other currencies, including Philippine pesos.

Best Meal of the Trip - Hot Pot Buffet at Market Street.

The food is great - expect a lot of Thai and Indian influence in local restaurants, such as tamarind-based tom yum and different curries. I'm a huge fan of coconut milk, so this was mostly my cup of tea. Western choices are available, although I don't understand why anyone would choose that over local cuisine.

We stayed at the Sonyn Retreat House and I was surprised and satisfied with the service they provided. The Khmer people are probably one of the most hospitable folks I've met so far.

Lastly, do listen to your guide, should you decide to hire one - it's way worth it.