To Cambodia and Back

Angkor Wat.

We've visited Cambodia a couple of months ago (hence this is a long overdue post). This is the second time I've been out of the country this year, and if there's anything that's been emphasized for me, it's that the world is a terrifyingly large place, and the disparity between its many peoples can only be apparent to someone who travels.

Causeway to Angkor Wat.

To say that Cambodia has a long way to go as a developing country is a gross understatement. Decades of conflict during the Cold War have set the country back by many years. Despite this, rapid modernization is undeniably present in the country - Western staples such as malls, convenience stores and hotels seem to be within arm's reach, at least from what we saw in Siem Reap (and I assume that the case would be the same for Phnom Penh).

Angkor Wat - Exterior Wall.

What Cambodia lacks in modern infrastructure, it more than makes up for with its tourism industry. The country has a surprisingly rich past dating back to over a millennium. Countless (and I mean countless) temples dot the landscape - architectural marvels that have stood the test of time and have survived wars, natural disasters and looting. The famous Angkor Wat is but one of Cambodia's more famous landmarks and is flocked by countless visitors daily.

Sanskrit.

From walls covered in long forgotten stories written in Sanskrit to entire carvings depicting the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata, there is an astounding amount of history preserved in the ancient stone. The modern Khmer people have deep respect for their history and culture, as evidenced by the level of preservation of their ancient artifacts.

Ramayana.

Sanskrit.

Recurring themes are visible throughout the different temples, as the ancient Khmer Empire has strong roots from the Indian subcontinent. Our guide mentioned that each temple was aligned to either Hinduism or Buddhism (and later temples to both).

The Lotus.

The Naga lines most temple causeways.

Reclining Buddha.

Buddha is given shade by the Naga.

The views are definitely breathtaking. Climbing atop the temples takes a bit of work, but seeing the magnificent views (that were once only reserved for the highest of royals and holy men) is a privilege for anyone living today.

Angkor Wat - Side Entrance.

Angkor Wat - Middle Wall.

Angkor Wat - Center Interior.

Angkor Wat - Overlook.

Angkor Wat - Stairway to Heaven.

Angkor Wat - Rear.

Of course, Angkor Wat isn't the only temple that Cambodia has to offer. Ta Prohm, made famous by the Tomb Raider film,was an eerie sight - ancient stone structures slowly being reclaimed by the forest, with the massive roots of the spung trees carving through the rock like it was clay.

The lingering effects of the past are seen on the way to the smaller temples. Millions of landmines have been deployed throughout the country over the years, and victims try to make a living by playing music or selling handcrafted souvenirs and fruits.

Ta Prohm - Entrance.

Ta Prohm - Entrance Close-up.

Ta Prohm - Ruined Wall.

Ta Prohm - Spung Tree Over Temple.

Ta Prohm - Spung Tree Growing Out of Rocks.

Even the paths towards the major landmarks were decorated with ancient pieces of architecture. Gates, signifying the territories encompassed by sacred grounds, stand tall above the thick foliage.

The Gate - See our van on the other side for size comparison.

The Gate - Elephants adorn the stone, which is an homage to Vishnu.

Elephant Training Grounds.

Temple Stones - Grounds staff pile them around while waiting for resources for their restoration efforts.

My personal favorite was Bayon. Massive stone heads depicting Buddha are found in its interior, most of which were carved and stacked like Lego bricks. Temples like these took generations to complete. Imagine spending one's lifetime dedicated to the completion of a singular goal - something that's unthinkable these days.

Bayon - Side.

Bayon - Exterior.

Bayon - Interior.

Bayon - Exterior Front.

Bayon - Exterior.

Needless to say, expect a lot of walking when visiting Cambodia. We had to trek to the top of a rather high hill to see the sunset on our first day (which was unfortunately crowded when we got there).

We also got to climb a mountain to visit one of the more sacred Hindu sites - a mountain spring that fed water to the entirety of Siem Reap in ancient times. The mountain is rife with symbolisms of the creation myth, particularly of the sivat linga - a representation of the union between man and woman.

The highest part of the mountain has the streams running through these carvings, as if the water itself is made fertile by their gods.

Sivat Linga.

Overall, I'd say Cambodia is worth the visit. The country is a massive change of pace from the insanity of the modern world, and revisiting a country's unspoiled past is one way to disconnect from the craziness.

The Fine Print
I'd recommend visiting as a group to allow expenses to be split. I think we spent a little less than PhP 25,000 per person for the entire four day trip, which included the air fare, tour guide, a rented van, the hotel stay and allowances for food, souvenirs, tips and miscellaneous stuff like massages, exotic food (like tarantulas and silkworms) and the infamous happy pizza.

I prefer their airport over NAIA, even though it's a lot smaller. NAIA is that bad.

Bring US dollars and (for the love of all that is holy) do not exchange them for Khmer riel at a forex counter unless you like carrying a bag full of paper money (or fancy yourself a millionaire for a short while). US dollars are generally accepted as the standard currency and the local currency is mostly used for spare change. Some establishments, especially souvenir shops, also accept other currencies, including Philippine pesos.

Best Meal of the Trip - Hot Pot Buffet at Market Street.

The food is great - expect a lot of Thai and Indian influence in local restaurants, such as tamarind-based tom yum and different curries. I'm a huge fan of coconut milk, so this was mostly my cup of tea. Western choices are available, although I don't understand why anyone would choose that over local cuisine.

We stayed at the Sonyn Retreat House and I was surprised and satisfied with the service they provided. The Khmer people are probably one of the most hospitable folks I've met so far.

Lastly, do listen to your guide, should you decide to hire one - it's way worth it.

2015 So Far - August

I've turned 27. Who would've guessed?

I've been mulling over a lot of things lately. The lengthy commutes - thanks to the increasingly frustrating Manila traffic situation - takes care of that.

Butao, Black King and Red King at Ramen Nagi, Greenbelt 3

It seems that getting closer to one's third decade on earth raises a lot of room for self doubt. It's a strange feeling, really, to start shedding the feeling of invincibility that comes with youth.

Lengua and Paella at Pia y Damaso, Greenbelt 5

I'm always thankful to be in a relatively good position in life (compared to a lot of people), but most days I can't help but wonder if peace or contentment or whatever counts for enlightenment awaits us over the next hill, so to speak. It's easy to be optimistic when one is young and surrounded by all the safety nets that the world can offer.

Squid Ink Pappardelle and Kimchi Fried Rice at Wildflour Cafe, Rada Street, Makati

Uncertainties are a part of adult life, and that sentiment grows on me each day. I still have questions over what I really want to do with my life.

Cat Cafe Manila, Maginhawa St. cor. Makadios St., Teacher's Village

Questions that have been raised through the daily grind we all know and love (or hate or resent), where one tends to weigh between living in relative comfort while never really satiating that craving for meaning in an increasingly maddening world.

Customised Noodles at Caution Hot, Maginhawa St. cor. Magiting St., Teacher's Village

I guess that's the puzzle that will haunt this generation - my generation. How does one find self-fulfillment without exchanging it for an empty stomach?

Dragon's Breath at Icecreamist, Maginhawa St. cor. Magiting St., Teacher's Village

Maybe that's something I should ponder upon over the next year. I feel like I'm at the same point as Einstein was when he came up with his theory of relativity, if the famous anecdote is to be believed.

Butterbeer at The Nook, Maginhawa St., Teacher's Village

And if this other personally relatable anecdote is to be believed, then I'm at a strange crossroad in my life. I suppose I should make the most out of my circumstances. After all, the universe has never been unkind. Unfair, sometimes, but never unkind.

2015 So Far - June

Well, this happened.

I somehow found myself on a business trip to Gurgaon for a couple of weeks. It's the first time I've traveled alone - as well as the first time I've gone out of the country in a very long time.

I had a six-hour layover at Changi Airport in Singapore. It was a fairly bittersweet experience - Changi was a reminder of the nice things one can enjoy because of massive investments. It was such a far cry from NAIA and is somewhat of a landmark in itself.

I've heard quite a few warnings about India from recent news. There have been some heat waves recently, with scores of people succumbing from the heat. It's alarming news - especially for a country of over a billion people.

I arrived at Indira Gandhi Airport on a late Saturday night. I've been booked to stay at The Oberoi, which is probably (or definitely, if we're being honest) the most luxurious hotel I've had the pleasure of staying at.

I would have preferred to stay indoors, but I managed to take a few shots of the surrounding area.

Pool with Yellow Blossoms at The Trident

Garden and Pool at The Oberoi

The hotel was almost too luxuriously maintained. The staff - from the front desk staff to the housekeepers and chaffeurs (fancy!) - were nothing short of excellent. I know I sound like a paid shill for saying these things, but impressions do last and those folks at the Oberoi set an extremely high bar that would probably be difficult to top (unless I become a billionaire and hire my own wait staff).

I had one weekend free - unfortunately I didn't have the time (or inclination) to plan a visit to Agra (where the Taj Mahal and Red fort are located) or New Delhi itself (where a ton of monuments would have provided a good amount of photographs).

I settled for the next best thing - a visit to a cultural entertainment complex called the Kingdom of Dreams.

The first stop was the Culture Gully - a hall where the various cuisines of India were featured in separate kitchens.

The Culture Gully is a sprawling, air-conditioned complex. Apart from food, one can buy souvenirs and enjoy performers as they impressed the crowd at regular intervals.

The entrance to the Culture Gully was in the shape of a lotus.

Another petal pool.

My personal highlight, of course, was the food. Majority of the food in India cater to Hindus, who primarily observe a vegan diet. I just had to try a meat dish, so I settled for Arbi Gosht, which was a goat meat curry from Hyderabad.

After that meal, I headed for the Nautanki Mahal, where I bought tickets for a Bollywood production entitled Zangoora.

Nautanki Mahal and Showshaa Theatre.

Assembly Gates.

Nautanki Mahal.

Lotus Fountain.

Showshaa Theatre.

Second Lotus Fountain.

Stone Elephant.

Random Camel.

Zangoora was a play about a classical story - a baby prince was separated from his royal birthright after his parents were betrayed by their royal subjects. Pursued by assassins, one of the kingdom's last loyal subjects managed to send him off to a gypsy camp to be raised incognito. A string of events would eventually lead him back towards a path to the throne.

The production value of Zangoora was absurd. The actors made use of the entire theatre, with multiple set pieces located beneath the stage as well as high above the audience. With a mixture of CGI and elaborate sets, this was probably one of the best plays I've ever seen live.

Overall, I think that my two-week trip was somewhat a rite of passage. There are very few reasons I'd have to get out and try to travel by myself, and my experience (especially the last couple of days) not only taught me a lot of things about myself, but also a lot of things about people who have to travel to make a living.

That in itself is worthy of a separate post.

Later!